FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
About The Arcadian Forge, Knives & Japanese Swords
Questions about The Arcadian
Who is The Arcadian?
My name is Gavin Coleman. I”m a knifemaker and bladesmith specialising in the Japanese tradition of blade making. You can read more about me on the About the Maker page.
Are you associated with Ironside Edge Works?
Yes. I was the founding member of Ironside Edge Works and was the lead designer and maker for that company until the start of 2025 when the company dissolved.
I was only one person part of that team, although it was mainly my vision that started it. I now work alone in my homestead workshop.
Why can't I find you on Instagram / Facebook anymore?
Unfortunately Meta’s policy around promoting Knives and Swords means that I have been suspended from their services. In September 2025 I had 15 years of my social media history wiped from the internet by Meta’s AI system who deemed my work a violation of “community standards”.
There was no opportunity to speak to an actual human who may understand that what I do is art.
I have since taken the stance that I will not support Meta and their practices any longer. I’m not going to jump through hoops or skirt around what I do to appease a company who has been actively suppressing the industry I work in since 2020.
I would strongly encourage other knife collectors and makers to get off the platform.
Where is The Arcadian Forge Located?
My workshop, The Arcadian Forge, is located on my family homestead in a small village about 2 hours outside of Cape Town, South Africa.
I’m close enough to a major city for logistics and supplies, but get to spend my working days in a quiet and tranquil setting.
Do you ship internationally?
Yes.
I have shipped knives and swords all over the world. I use a specialist international shipping agent who deals with art work. I can ship almost anywhere.
If you are unsure, please ask via my Contact Page.
What is the best knife for self defence?
This is a very difficult question to answer because it is so subjective.
Everyone will have their own unique perspective and requirements for this purpose. However without getting too much into reasons why, my personal opinion is that a Pikal style knife is the overall best contender for “Best Self Defence Knife” for these 3 reasons.
1: It doesn’t take a long time to master it and be effective
2: Generally can be short enough to be legal in most places that permit knife carrying
3: It is capable of causing severe damage to an assailant and ending the altercation
What is the best steel for EDC knives?
This is again very subjective, but in my personal experience simple high carbon steels are better.
For one, they are cheaper, both to buy and to work with. Easier to sharpen for the lay person with minimal equipment, and if heat treated correctly they will offer perfectly adequate performance for most users’ needs.
The one downside is they do require some care in the form of periodic oiling or a protective coating to prevent rust.
Personally I don’t believe in “super steel” hype. The benefits of them outweigh the cost and finesse required to get a performance marker that most users simply don’t really need.
How long does it take to make these knives?
For me, my process has evolved a lot over the years. I used to try to make knives as quickly as possible, and now I’m more prone to making them as slowly as I can.
This is more to do with the methodology and the detail I’m looking to implement in my work. Typically though, a knife of mine with a modern Tsukamaki handle takes about 6-7 days to complete. Though, this does not take into account the possibility of waiting for materials to arrive, processing of materials, mistakes which do happen, and certain processes like Hot Bluing which I currently out-source and therefore can add an unknown variable to completion time.
These can influence the real build time of a project dramatically. This is why I never commit to exact dates with my projects.
Where do you get the materials for Tsukamaki from?
I get my tsukaito and Samegawa skins from a 6th generation supplier in Japan.
When I began doing this type of work I opted from the start to do it with the real materials. Despite it being quite costly to attain, I feel that this is an area which matters a lot. Using fake, synthetic Ito, or processed sting-ray leather just does not have the same visual impact or textural quality as the real, authentic high quality materials from a Japanese supplier.
The Samegawa and Ito I use is meant for antique sword Koshirae and high end Nihonto. So it is the best you can get.
If I have an idea for a knife, will you make it?
Maybe.
While I am open to doing custom work and collaborations, I can only commit to an idea that interests me greatly. The only way to know for sure is to contact me and tell me more.
If you have an idea you want to run by me, please get it touch via my Contact Page.
Questions about Knives
Questions about Japanese Swords
What does the term "Nihonto" refer to?
“Nihonto” (日本刀) is the Japanese word for “Japanese Sword”.
This does have a very specific meaning beyond the obvious. It specifically refers to Japanese Swords made from Tamahagane steel in the traditional forging methods. This results in a sword with visible and distinctive Hamon and Hada.
While contemporary Japanese Swords made of modern steels and more modern methods do exist these will not be considered “Nihonto” by collectors or officially recognised by Japanese authorities, even if made by a licensed Japanese smith.
The word Nihonto therefore refers specifically and precisely to a Japanese Sword made by a licensed Japanese smith, in the prescribed manner.
That said, there are many really beaitiful works of art that we call “Japanese Swords” made by talented craftsmen outside of Japan that are used by martial arts enthusiasts or sought after by collectors.
Why are Japanese Swords curved?
This is a distinctive feature of the Japanese Sword and should always be present, whether a genuine Nihonto, or a contemporary modern made version.
The curve of a Japanese sword like the Katana happens during the quenching process. This is where the steel is heated in the forge and quenched in water to harden the steel. Traditional Japanese Swords have clay placed along the spine of the blade which acts as a heat sink.
This results in the edge of the blade becoming harder than the spine. Meaning a sharp cutting edge, with a shock resisting spine to support it. Assuming all goes well that is. This clay hardening process is also what produces the distinctive Hamon in the blade.
It is also what helps to produce the Sori or curve of the blade. The thicker part of the blade cools down slower than the thinner edge, resulting in the upward curve. This really only happens when the blade is quenched in water, as it cools the steel the most rapidly of all quenching fluids. This rapid cooling is a requirement for Sori to be created.
This curve is never fully predictable and part of what makes these swords so special, seemingly with a life and personality of their own.
Water quenching is also a very volatile process. The violent and rapid cooling of the steel often results in cracked and unusable blades. Even master smiths may lose up to 30% of the blades they attempt to make. This is why these blades are so special.
What does "Hybrid Polishing" mean?
Hybrid Polishing is a modern method of polishing a sword blade to reveal the Hamon and all its intricate details.
Traditional polishing takes a long time and is usually done by a Togishi, a trained polisher using natural water stones. This can be quite costly, although the results are astoundingly beautiful and accentuate the elegance of a sword. This is a process usually reserved for antique Nihonto or very high end collectors pieces.
Hybrid Polishing is quicker, provides adequate results for admiring a swords beauty, but is not so precious a finish making it a good option for those who use their swords for cutting practice or Tamashigiri. All sword blades will scratch and possibly even chip with enough usage, and those who use their swords often don’t necessarily want to incur the high expense of a Traditional Polish every time.
Hybrid Polishing makes use of modern abrasives and acids to bring out the hamon detail, and usually takes around 7 to 10 days to complete.